Thai String-Tying Ceremony
The highlight of my first week at my permanent Peace Corps service
site, a rural school in northeastern Thailand, was the string-tying ceremony. The
school held a welcoming reception four days after I arrived, and the ceremony
was a big part of it. Like many things that happened during that first week,
the reception and ceremony were fun and exciting but also made me acutely
self-conscious – not least because a huge banner with my picture on it was displayed
at the school entrance. I soon learned that banners are used for many Thai
events.
The reception started quite a bit later than the announced time –
something you quickly come to expect in Thailand. My English teacher colleague
served as EmCee. I had to give a speech in the Thai language about myself. Everyone
gathered in the middle of the room, sitting on the floor, around a large urn
with flowers in it and surrounded by other objects including a bowl with an
egg, other bowls and plates with fruit and other food, a candle stuck into an
empty bottle, and short lengths of string hung up for people to take. I had
seated myself politely with my legs to one side (covered by my skirt) when an
older lady told me I could sit cross-legged as she was doing. A few minutes
later, a teacher told me to sit the other way for the ceremony. I just tried to
follow instructions.
The ceremony itself began with a long string
being handed around so that everyone in the circles around the centerpiece had
hold of it – everyone was connected by the string, as you can see in the photo.
Then an older gentleman chanted for quite a while, and everyone held their
hands in a wai/prayer position. The other people all knew when to join in the
chant with a few syllables. A fellow-teacher told me the string is called sai
sin, which means sacred string.
After the chanting was finished, I had to hold an egg, a banana, and
a rolled-up banana leaf with rice in it in one hand, while each person in turn
tied a string around my wrist. They all
said they wanted me to be happy, to have good luck, and to have good health,
among other good wishes. This went on for a long time – I must have had 60
strings around my wrist when it was finished. The tradition is to leave them
there for three days. It was really
touching that all these people came up to me on their knees to tie a string and
say something kind. Except for my host
family and a few teachers at the school, I didn’t know most of them.
After that, there were speeches, food, and karaoke, which is very
popular among Thais. You can count on a karaoke machine at most every party.
The next morning was graduation for mattayom Levels 3 and 6 (roughly
comparable to our high school grades 9 and 12).
I went to the graduation ceremony, which again included many speeches. Each
student walked across the stage to receive her or his graduation certificate.
Then the graduating students all put their chairs in a circle and sat waiting
for people to tie strings around their wrists!
So even though I had met only a few of them, I joined the other teachers
in tying strings around each student’s wrist. I said in English: I want you to be happy and strong and
successful. Some of them cried really hard – the ceremony is clearly something
that carries s a lot of emotional significance for them.
After the string-tying was finished, the students walked around
signing each other’s blouses or shirts, like signing yearbooks in the US – the
students at this school don’t have yearbooks, as far as I know. I signed quite
a few blouses and a few shirts – not as many boys asked for my signature. I was glad to have the chance to participate
in the string ceremony from the giving as well as the receiving side so soon
after arriving at my site.
_________
The photograph of the string ceremony, taken by my Thai colleague
Chanutaporn Arayakul, was recognized for best representation of the Peace Corps in
Thailand at the July “Reconnect” conference. A slightly longer version of this
article was published on July 18, 2013 in the Ripon Commonwealth Press, the
weekly newspaper of the Wisconsin town where I grew up.
Saying something kind to someone can make them and you feel better.
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