Sunday, October 26, 2014

Sightseeing and Shopping 2




Sightseeing and Shopping 2
More Chiang Rai Sites

After spending the night in a Chiang Rai hotel, we had breakfast at the student center of Mae Fah Luang University, founded in 1998. It is named after HRH the Princess Mother, the mother of the current King of Thailand, HRH King Bhumibol. Although the university is very young, it had about 10,000 students already in 2012, including many international students. Most courses are taught in English. Here is a picture of the entrance to the student center. Banners inside proclaim “Welcome Freshers!” – a new (to me) gender-neutral noun for first-year students.


The campus is large and very beautiful, with many trees and good views of the surrounding mountains. We were there only a short time, so I wasn’t able to get pictures that would do it justice.

From there, we drove up a beautiful winding road to another temple, Pra That Doi Tung, named after  the mountain it sits on, Doi Tung. It is near the Myanmar border, in the area known as The Golden Triangle. The temple is said to date back to 911, though it has undergone extensive renovation and probably bears little resemblance to the original. Again, if you’re on Facebook, you’ve seen some of these pictures already.

Nagas/serpents guarding the stairs

Giants with baseball bats (haha just kidding) guarding the entrance







Bells lining the walkway, each with a different tone



           































 In the pictures below, you see that the temple is not large, but quite beautiful and well maintained.

Figures on the right side of the temple

Figures on left side of temple

Close-up to show details

Back down the mountain, I took a closer look at the guy below – don’t know who he is, but you can see he’s well taken care of, with soft drinks and food (left picture) and a blanket around him against the chilly nights. Note the bloody axe, better visible in the picture below right. I asked whom he’d killed but nobody knew.



In the picture below, you see a group of monks getting ready to head up the hill, and behind them a number of vendors' stalls where, of course, we went shopping.




Our next stop was Doi Tung Villa, where the Princess Mother Mae Fah Luang spent most of her time from the late 1980s until her death in 1995, at age 95. Although she had lived much of her life abroad, once she made a decision to stay in Thailand, in 1964, she became very active on behalf of impoverished people in rural areas, especially in the North. We learned that the landscape, thickly forested today, was mostly barren after years of slash-and-burn agriculture. Mae Fah Luang sponsored a reforestation project, as well as helping to introduce the cultivation of crops such as coffee, tea, and corn as an alternative to poppies, and bringing medical care to isolated villages. Like HRH King Bhumibol and HRH Queen Sirikit, she is much revered for her good works. The name Mae Fah Luang (mother/sky/royal, or royal mother from the sky) was given to her by the rural people because they usually saw her arrive by helicopter.

The Doi Tung Villa is at the top of a hill with beautiful views – the area reminded Mae Fah Luang of Switzerland, where she had lived for many years and raised her three children. You can see the combination of Swiss and Thai architectural elements in the design.

Villa as seen walking up the hill



View from the balcony

Entrance to the villa
 Visitors aren't allowed to take photographs inside the villa, so I can't show you the great room ceiling with the Princess Mother's favorite constellations. Except for that large room, with its vaulted ceiling, the villa is rather modest for a royal residence. Today, the Villa is used only for special events; no one from the Royal Family lives here. Below is a view of the well-manicured lawn, with me and Bussara looking as though we're about to fall off that bench.


 Bussara compared the state of the villa and gardens today with the way they looked when she visited there the first time, about 15 years ago. She said it was much more beautiful then, with a far greater variety of flowers -- as the Princess Mother preferred. After Bussara said that, I realized that there were a great many begonias and other hardy flowers that grow well without a lot of attention (that's why I can grow them!). Still, the villa gardens are beautiful, as you can see in the pictures below.
























 The sculpture, which is named "Continuity," is the work of a Thai woman sculptor, Misiem Yipintsol.

After leaving the villa, we headed farther north to Mae Sai, the northernmost town in Thailand, as amusingly proclaimed by the arch behind us.


 In Mai Sai, all we did was eat and shop -- shopping is the town's main draw -- so this was effectively the end of our trip. Then we drove south as far as Chiang Mai, spent the night there, and visited a museum (again, no picture-taking allowed) before leaving on the nearly 12-hour drive back to Kanchanaburi. Let me add that our principal paid for the trip, so a big thank-you to her!  I learned a lot about northern Thailand -- very different from the northeast, where I lived last year -- and hope you enjoyed what I've shared with you here.













Sight-seeing and Shopping 1


Sight-Seeing and Shopping 1
North to Chiang Rai


In mid-October I spent several days traveling with my school principal and eight fellow-teachers. With our driver, a principal from another school, that made ten of us in a rented mini-van. Our destination was supposedly Chiang Mai, a city I looked forward to seeing again. However, in the by now familiar Thai way, we spent very little time there, instead visiting several places farther north, in Chiang Rai province. It was a good trip.

The first day, we, that is, the driver drove through the night, stopping at some point when he got too tired. We dozed in the car until dawn, freshened up as best we could, and arrived shortly after 7am at Wat Phra That Doi Pui, high up on a mountain. While we were walking three times around the pagoda before lighting candles and joss sticks, I remarked:  “This looks a lot like Doi Suthep.” Nobody made any reply – maybe they were concentrating on the walk. Anyway, the explanation for the “similarities” is simple: The temple looked like Wat Doi Suthep because it’s the same one (duh). Doi Suthep and Doi Pui are twin mountain peaks (doi = peak), about 15 km west of Chiang Mai. During my first visit there a year ago, I had walked up 300 steps, arriving at the temple level from the Doi Suthep side at midday. This year, we rode up in a cable car on the Doi Pui  side early in the morning, before many tourists were there. So it took me a while to figure things out. Anyway, here are a few pictures – if you’re on Facebook, you’ve seen some of them already.




 The photo on the left shows people walking around the pagoda. On the right, me and some of my colleagues in front of the pagoda. The woman in the middle is our school principal.

The next pictures show a few of the many figures and altars around the pagoda. The reclining Buddha, below, is not very famous, but striking because, if you zoom in, you can see that he looks as if he's been wrapped, like a mummy. (Don't quote me on this.) I liked the little seated one on the right because of the green shield-type-thing behind his head -- very striking.

 



 


 


The guard standing in front of another reclining Buddha (above left) I liked because of his patient expression and double-fish belt.  Next to him on the right, you see me and my co-teacher Bussara in front of an ornate altar. I liked the Buddha figure in the center, above, for his bronze color and black hair. These are just a few of the images that crowd the temple area.

At temples and palaces, I'm always fascinated by the monsters and demons that guard the place. Below are a team of what look to me like dogs, but I'm told they are "singh" -- lions. Of course, lions didn't live in Asia, so artists used their imagination. The other little demon below has the Thai word "mom" on its pillar -- be assured that this is not the English word "mom;" but simply this particular demon's name. You see him often in paintings as well as sculptures.

 




















 After leaving the temple we took a song teo up the mountain to what is billed as Hill Tribe Museum Village – lots of vendors selling handmade textiles, clothing, handbags, jewelry, knick-knacks, . . . you can imagine. We shopped our way farther up the mountain to reach the the Museum Village, which is actually more like a park, very beautifully landscaped with a few houses around – an ideal photo-op location. We rented Hmong traditional clothes for 50 Baht each. The first picture below shoes my fellow-teachers Ampai and Thanchanok modeling the clothes.




Above are some of my colleagues with Hmong children, whose job it clearly is to hang around and offer to pose with tourists. And there I am below, looking and feeling a bit sheepish in my rented finery.



Our next stop was several hours farther north, Wat Rong Khun in Chiang Rai.  It is usually called The White Temple. Designed in 1997, it is more or less the life work of the artist/architect Chalermchai Kositpipat. Some of the buildings were closed to visitors when we were there because of damage sustained during an earthquake in May 2014; repairs are already underway. The image below was my first glimpse of the temple -- this demon starting spewing water just as we crossed the street.



 Above left you see crowded figures in the moat, and to the right, the temple reflected in the pond.  The photo doesn't do justice to how the temple sparkles int he sun, because of the zillions of tiny mirrors embedded in the construction material.

Below is one of several trees festooned with skulls. An image of the artists stands at the entrance to the site to greet people.



In publicity about the White Temple, much is made of the fact that images from contemporary popular culture are integrated into the design (“A Buddhist Temple Inspired by Sci-Fi Movies” shouts one web site). To me, however, it seems all of a piece with the Candle Festival images, described in a post a few months ago. Like the candle carvings, the temple teems with figures – human, animal, mythical, imaginary – all engaged in some great effort or other.

Our last stop of the day was a tea-growing plantation and nearby park with a comically immense gold dragon standing alone in the middle.



To be continued.